Saturday, July 26, 2014

Spain, Morocco and Gibraltar 2014

I promised the parents that every few days I'd check in to let them know all is well. The first email was short and quick.  And then I started writing. Geez.  I wrote every day (absolutely was NOT my intention!) and the writing got longer and longer.  The last few days are full blown essays. I wonder if parents ever read them...  

The students were required to keep a journal during the trip and were given time to do so daily.  This is my "journal."

(Because no one normal has time to read this, read the last day :))

June 17

We got to our hotel at 5 pm local time (8 am CA time), freshened up and went out to dinner. Rode the metro and got to a famous restaurant chain called Museo Del Jamon. The students had the cold tomato soup called gazpacho, some local ham and paella, the Spanish national rice dish. After that, we walked around Puerta Del Sol, the Royal Palace and Plaza Mayor, the main square.

We were supposed to be visiting the inside of the Royal Palace tomorrow but Thursday is the day Prince Felipe will become King of Spain, thus the palace is closed for preparations. Nevertheless, it was nice to see the enormous building from the outside and take some pictures.

We sang "happy birthday" to Gabbi, had some ice cream, did some light shopping and headed home. I collected all the passports and the kids are asleep :))

June 18

This morning started with a huge array of baked goods at the hotel and coffee and tea galore. We trekked to the Santiago Barnabeu stadium, where the famed Real Madrid play. Of course, there are no games right now since as I write this, they are losing yet another game at the World Cup in Brazil.


After walking around the stadium, the group split into two. Some took a tour of Barnabeu, visited the locker rooms, saw the inside etc. Others, went to Parque de Retiro, Madrid's answer to out Golden Gate Park. There, we rented row boats, ate ice cream and had a great time.


The Retiro group also made it to the Museo Del Prado, world's third largest museum (after the Louvre in Paris and the Hermitage in St Petersburg, Russia). Though we didn't have much time, we saw the works of Velázquez, Goya and Zurbaran. We had lunch at the Rodilla cafe, a place that serves a wide variety of tea sandwiches.
We then hopped the tour bus and rode around Madrid while listening to history told by a very interesting guide. She took us to Ventas (Madrid's bull fighting ring), Plaza de Espana where Miguel Cervantes (author of Don Quixote) is celebrated for his contribution to the literary world among several avenues and fountains.

After the tour, we went to Reina Sofia, Madrid's modern museum where we saw one of Picasso's most famous works of art: Guernica. Afterwards, he students "journaled." Even though I'm not reading these journals, I'm hoping they are full of insightful and thoughtful notes.

We had dinner in the center of the city and I'm so proud of those who are practicing their Spanish. Little things like asking for bread, ordering soup, etc are so so great for their confidence in Spanish!

Some students were so tired they headed home, while others are stoked to be watching the Spain - Chile game in a late night cafe. What a memory to have, watching Spain game in Spain! Now only if they could muster up a goal...

Tomorrow we are off to Toledo and Granada. It'll be a long day of sightseeing and traveling South with a cherry on top: Flamenco in the eve.

June 19

What a day! After several "wow" moments from the students, I know they are exactly where they need to be. Here, experiencing Spain. 

We headed to Toledo, a city only one hour away from Madrid full of religious history and the narrowest of streets. Today is a big holiday in Spain (Corpus Cristi) and Toledo celebrates it the most. That means the streets were beautifully decorated, the incense burning and people everywhere. As we turned corners revealing yet another gorgeous building or a narrow pathway, there were many awe-inducing moments.  We visited the synagogue in the Jewish Quarter, El Greco's museum, learned about Paradores (these breathtaking government owned hotels can be found at www.Parador.es/en), took in the vista of the Tajo river and walked on the bridge of San Jeronimo. Of course, we also had to have a taste of the local delicacy: turron, an almond dessert.  

Next stop: watching how the Toledo swords are made. Toledo metal is considered to be one of the most durable in the world and it has the prices to go along with it.  We also saw a master work on damascene jewelry http://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Damascening so your kids  are coming back with pieces of jewelry, knives and swords. Fabulous. 

On our way down to Granada, we stopped to look at the windmills of La Mancha and have lunch. The kids also learned the importance of the Spanish siesta: we wanted to check out a castle and arrived at its gates at 1:48. Bad for us since the siesta started at 1:45 and we couldn't get in. Next time!

Upon our arrival in Granada, we scarfed down our dinner and had a few spare minutes to change for the Flamenco show.  I don't want to say too much about it because the videos and smiles upon your kids' return will speak for themselves. It was awesome!

Walking around the Albacin area of Granada, we saw the beautiful Alhambra all lit up on top of the mountain.  Tomorrow, we will be spending the morning there and learning quite a lot. 

Afterwards, some kids headed home while others decided to take advantage of the beautiful weather and explore more. We went to the Feria of Corpus Cristi where thousands of people were dancing across many stages, riding rides, visiting a ghost house and eating fair-type food. Fun was had and it ended up being a very late night. At this point they are used to being so tired but our now planning their their make up naps on the bus.  So much to do and so little time! 

Tomorrow will be another busy day.  And for those of you familiar with fitbit..... The first day we walked 16000 steps and yesterday 21000.  Stay tuned for today's numbers!

June 20

Another day, another early wake up call!

This morning we visited Alhambra, a Muslim palace overseeing Granada from atop of a mountain. Elena, our tour guide, used the students as props (Justice was king!) to walk us through the history of the place. She was informative and friendly and we really enjoyed her company. The gardens of Generalife are immaculate and the views like no other. Many pics to come!

After the Alhambra, the kids did a City Challenge where they were to find certain statues, buildings and info by using their map and speaking Spanish. None of the Logan groups won but they got to see some nice things and enjoy each other's company.

The three hour bus ride got us to Sevilla where we currently are. Our hotel is super centrally located and the picture of the mosaic on the wall is attached.

After dinner, the students wrote in their journals and got ready for a Dance Discoteca on the boat of the Guadalquivir River. It's been neat to see the students write about their experience, especially when they grab a pen and get to it without my asking or an assigned time. That's exactly what kind of a journal you want to have; spontaneous and full of impressions.

On the boat the kids danced the night away. I'm sure there are videos of their moves but no one can beat the attitude and rhythm of Marc and Mike. Whoa, they are good!

Afterwards, we separated into two groups, the sweet and the savory. Sweet ones ate churros con chocolate while the salty enjoyed papas fritas.

Fitbit total: 24000 steps for yesterday and today. We rock.

On a completely different note, a lot of your kids are very efficient shoppers! We have had lunches at $6-10 every day, far below the $15-20 that I told you guys it'd be. The problem? The kids are running out of money. Every day they have gotten a few minutes free to look around (10-15) and they always come back with new purchases. So... since everyone has a different budget and I don't know what it is, I'd like you guys, the parents, to check in via email/whatsapp/etc with your child to make sure they have enough money for lunches for the rest of the week. Since this is the midpoint of the trip,  it'd be a good time to review the  financial expectations that each family set for themselves before we took off. I'm happy to relay any message you have for your child if you can't get to them directly.

Onto exploring Sevilla in the daylight tomorrow!

June 21

The hotel's wake up call never delivered and there is nothing like starting your day by jumping out of bed and realizing you are late. It was one of those mornings but we were ready to go in record time.

Our first stop was the Plaza de España in Parque de Maria Luisa. The plaza was built in 1929 for the America's Expo and is quite an amazing structure.  https://www.google.com/search?q=plaza+de+espana+seville&safe=active&client=ms-android-verizon&espv=1&source=lnms&tbm=isch&sa=X&ei=kAimU5WSJqyo0wXchYHABg&ved=0CAcQ_AUoAQ&biw=360&bih=567

Next on the agenda was the Real Alcazar, a royal palace for the monarchs when they visit Sevilla. It drizzled as we walked through the gardens and our guide gave us a special quote: "La lluvia en Sevilla es una maravilla" "Rain in Sevilla is a marvel" (implying that it never happens!).

After the Alcazar we went to the third largest cathedral in the world (behind the Vatican and St Paul in London).  There we saw an organ with more than 7000 pipes and the tomb of Christopher Columbus. We climbed the Giralda tower which got us some impressive views of the city.

For lunch, the students ate a traditional lunch of tapas where they ordered small plates and shared them among friends. The highlights included gambas al ajillo, tortilla española, croquetas and fried codfish.

We spent the next few hours on the bus to Costa Del Sol, the sunny coast of Southern Spain. This evening 20 people decided to head to the beach and some even took a very late night dip in the waters of the Mediterranean Sea. Others stayed back and the hotel, swam in the pool and relaxed.

Tomorrow will be much more relaxed and I think we are all ready for that!

June 22

This morning there was no alarm and I think we couldn't have been happier.

At 10, some people went to the town of Torremolinos to attend Sunday Mass while others went to the beach. Torremolinos is the most "Spanish" town we visited on this trip: small, quaint and beautiful.  We've seen plenty of tourists on this trip and this was a nice local community.  

The beach-goers covered each other in sand, rode banana boats and tanned.

For lunch we had Spain's national dish, the paella. It was served to us in gigantic paelleras for everyone to share at a beach side restaurant. At our table we had the traditional seafood version as well as the chicken one. We were pretty pleased with the results. It was cool to see kids having mussels and calamari for the first time and I applaud them for trying it and dare I say, liking it!

We spent the second part of the day in Malaga, the biggest town near our hotel. The town has an amazing cathedral and beautiful decorations for Corpus Cristi. Most of the stores were closed and the kids were pretty disappointed that I didn't think about it ahead of time. Sunday 5 pm is not a good time to shop in Spain.
Some shopped at the few places that were open while others went up to the vista point at the top for a breathtaking view of Malaga, beaches and the Mediterranean. Beautiful.

We finished this outing by watching the processions from the Cathedral go all around town to celebrate Corpus Cristi.

We returned to the hotel for dinner, journal writing and relaxing. Kids are in bed and we are off to Morocco in 6 short hours. 

June 23

5:45 wake up call is not for the weak at heart but just like every other day, our group was complete and ready to go by our assigned time.

We arrived at the port in Algeciras to take a ferry to Ceuta, a port town that belongs to Spain but is located on the African continent. Our trip across of Strait of Gibraltar was pretty uneventful, just like a boat trip should be.  Upon arrival, we went through customs (no Moroccan stamps in passports were given :() and were on our way to Tetuan to explore Morocco.  Oh yes, some of us rode a camel too.

There we visited an art school and watched as kids worked on embroidery, wooden pieces, silk and leather.  We also walked around the market looking at the array of vegetables, fish, really fresh chickens, gorgeous doors and narrow alleys.
We visited a traditional pharmacy selling oils, lotions, soap, etc. Said, the pharmacist, was a comedian and I was his target. Fun was had.

Our lunch was a plate of couscous, chicken, beef kebab, topped off with Moroccan tea and cookie. A man balanced candles on his head as he danced to the local band of live music.

Our last stop for the day was a rug store. The kids got to see many rugs made in the Atlas Mountains as well as polish their bargaining skills.

On our ride home, there may have been an impromptu bus jam session/ concert featuring "Dancing Queen"  by ABBA but I'm not telling.

Tonight is one of the longest days/shortest nights of the year, which of course means you have to celebrate it.  Tonight is Noche de San Juan in Spain. 7 girls and I braved our tired eyes and went to the beach to see the celebration.  Thousands of people, fireworks, bonfires on the beach and lanterns being sent into the sky. Gorgeous.

Tomorrow is our last day and we are off to Gibraltar!

June 24

We spent our last day exploring the UK territory of Gibraltar.  We didn't know what to expect and we weren't disappointed!

With the lunch of fish and chips, buffalo wings, burgers and tuna melts we felt right at home. Our guide told us about the history of Gibraltar, took us to the St Michael's caves and showed us the ultimate Gibraltarian resident: the ape.  The caves were like nothing we've ever seen, lit up in lights with fun music playing as we enjoyed every nook and cranny. The  view from the top of The Rock of Gibraltar gave us Spain on one side and absolutely nothing on the other. Thanks to the torrential downpour it was a wet day but we knew Africa was there somewhere.

Back in Spain, we spent the last few hours on the beach, pool or in Torremolinos where some girls  had a little fish spa treatment. They'll tell you more about that later :)

Over the course of the week, the students were exposed to many new things, some can only be seen while traveling. Fish spa, topless beaches (yes, that's how Spaniards do it and no, we didn't participate :)), smells and sights of Morocco, dealing with money exchange, learning about service in restaurants (oh it's so different from ours!) and talking to locals.

I'm particularly proud of our group because of its size. Do you know how long it takes for 28 people to pee? I didn't either! But our group was always on time, no matter how tired or excited we were. I've been complimented by other Group Leaders how polite and respectful our students were. Our Tour Director, Diego, said he was waiting for a problem to arise but it just never did. The bus driver couldn't believe how clean the bus was after we used it day after day.

We looked the part for Flamenco night, dressed respectfully for Morocco, nobody got robbed (!!!) and we taught Diego about taking selfies.

A special shout out goes to those who practiced Spanish everyday and more so to Avani who learned a lot of Spanish this week and was not afraid to take a chance to practice it.

Wanya's hair deserves a special mention as well.  The older man who left the San Juan procession just to express his jealousy, Elena, our Alhambra guide couldn't keep her hands off and a Moroccan guy in his 20s liked "the look." Everyone wanted to talk about it and Wanya was gracious as could be.

Some other highlights include Jade talking Arabic in Morocco and making friends with local art students, Joseph talking Spanish nonstop, Diana winning the origami boat competition, our girl night on the beach for La Noche de San Juan, La Feria in Granada, straightening Louis's hair, seeing Crystal's face and hearing Sarah's squeal once their feet touched the fishy water,  seeing Kim's and Sofia's green screen pictures with Ronaldo and hearing about their visit to Barnabeu, using Travis as our metro guide and map guru, Veronica being pulled up on stage to dance Flamenco, Priscila planning our next year's trip to Puerto Rico, Gabe helping haggle down some Moroccan crafts, Prianka winning 4 card games in a row in a mean game of "killing time while we wait for our food," watching Travis and Louis try nonalcoholic beer (I have very zoomed in pics to show you the 0% alcohol factor), Gabbi needing to eat ice cream a few times a day, Jazmin making a bolt to the bus to avoid Gibraltar monkeys after taking their pics, multiple students counting how many times I trip (but never fall!)and Kyna being able to touch the ceiling in the Madrid Metro. Of course, we already know about Justice being king and Marc and Mike rocking it out on the boat dance floor.

Thank you for the wonderful memories, you've done Logan proud!

Thank you so much to Mrs. Erickson who was my right hand and Mr. Valencia who was our most important counter and book end.

I'd like to end with a story of an elderly couple who approached us in Malaga. They wanted to know where we were from. How can it be that such a large group speaking English was from the same place? It speaks to the diversity of Logan, the open-mindness of our students and the joy of being a teacher in a school that celebrates that.  While every school group we encountered looked the same, our school is a beautiful mix of everyone working together, traveling and learning.

Thank you for trusting me with your kids and I hope their short experience abroad will be a beginning of wanting to learn more about the world we live in. The students miss their families and have told me so. Please hug them tight and listen to all the good and sometimes hard things that traveling brings.  They were an amazing group with many pictures and selfies to share!

Wednesday, July 16, 2014

Flying Back: Summer 2014


It's become a little bit of a tradition to write about my travels on ridiculously long flights. Having flown over 13 hours to Buenos Aires, my 8 hour flight to Chicago seems like an easy peasy trip to the West. And what a trip it is... This is the first time in my life I'm flying Club. Luxury. Rich people style. Since I got on the aircraft an hour ago, I've been shown my footrest, full bed, blanket, toiletry set, brought a flute of champagne and given the menu that sounds fancier than any restaurant I'd visit on the ground. Oh to have money. Better yet, to be friendly and direct.  

As I was getting on the plane, I saw there were many empty seats in Club (British Airlines' First Class). Beet red and out of breath from running through the airport, I told the flight attendant that if there was an empty seat in the front, I'd love it. Communication; it makes the world go round. I thought the worst thing he could say was "no." Nothing gained, nothing lost. Instead he told me he'd see what he can do. 

He is just another reason this summer's trip has me sounding like a broken record.  Usually, I write pages upon pages about boat rides I've taken, statues I've seen, museums I've visited but this time it's been all about people. Every single country. Every single day. 

My group of 28 in Spain. Those kids and adults thanked me profusely for taking them on a trip full of memories. The wonderful people of Buenos Aires. I've never enjoyed the locals anywhere in the world as I have in Argentina. My friends Olya, Alyona and Rob make every visit to the UK better than the last one. The friends from eight different countries (yes, I counted!) and students who remembered my birthday and wrote personal and touching messages on the day I was sick as a dog. God, my birthday sucked. But my friends made it all better. In fact on the 14th, Olya reenacted the gift giving from the day before since I could actually smile upon receiving it and not be crumbled over in pain.  The flight attendant who could have totally said "no" but decided to ask his boss if he could upgrade me just because. My long time friend Tom who is picking me up from O'Hare. 

I've been sick for pretty much the entire duration of this trip.  From non stop coughing, fever, shakes, stomach pains and more, I've felt like complete crap.  My phone broke, Bank of America decided to cancel my cards and sent me a new one to CA (because that's so useful when I'm in Europe!), I broke the only two things you can break on an iPad and my camera only records videos when it wants to. Truth be told, none of these things really really matter. People do. 

In the next four days, I get more awesome people. Many of my MI friends live in Chicago and 7 of us will be getting together to catch up, drink and eat. Isn't that what good friends do? On Saturday, I will witness two friends promise to love each other forever as they get married on a boat on the Chicago River. 
 
After that, it will be all about family. I will be spending 11 days with the coolest grandma around, my favorite five year old in the world, my best friend and the rest of my family at a house where I grew up. 

And then it's back to California. Where I have the most supportive circle of people imaginable who will get me through the apartment search, yet another move (God bless your husbands, girls!) and the beginning of this new stage in my life. I've been living out of a suitcase since March 27th and I can't wait to have my own bed, cook in my own kitchen, watch Bachelor Paradise (is that what that new shit is called?) and be a mom of a kindergartener. 

Many many things will happen in the next few weeks and as long as there are good people around, it's a wonderful thing.


 
Flying over the Atlantic in mega style. I'd love to get used to this but I'll settle for any ticket to anywhere! Oh, and next summer's trip is starting to get planned.
Olya taking me to Afternoon Tea for my birthday. Sandwiches and cakes not pictured.  Views of Thames River and London are. 

Skyping with my little man from Argentina. And half of my dad. 










Wednesday, July 9, 2014

20 Things to Know Before Heading to Buenos Aires:

1. Forget the Subte, it's all about the amazing 24/7 bus system. At no point did I wait more than 3 minutes to get on
Buenos Aires is huge
2. Dollar cash is king. Dollar via ATM is not. The exchange discrepancy between official and street value is remarkable. Bring cash! 
Buenos Aires is huge
3. The Citi bank card gives you 20% off at a lot of restaurants.  
Buenos Aires is huge
4. Each neighborhood has its own flavor, make sure to visit the major ones. 
Buenos Aires is huge
5. There is a boat that goes to Tigre from BA. Take that, forget the slowly painful Mitre train. 
Buenos Aires is huge
6. Your Sube card can be negative 10 pesos. Rock those three rides for free!
Buenos Aires is huge
7. It is possible to eat something other than pizza. Hard but possible. 
Buenos Aires is huge
8. El Cuartito is the place for the best pizza because let's face it, you will eat some before you leave. Akira Nikkai is an incredible Peruvian/Sushi fusion resto. You can get a bottle of Malbec for under $5 at La Escondita. 
Buenos Aires is huge
9. Prices do not make sense. 40 minute tour of Teatro Colon is double the price of a 2 hour tour of La Bombera. I've had dinner for 29 pesos and another for 506. I can't tell you if Argentina is cheap or expensive. It's very hard to plan finances so be flexible. 
Buenos Aires is huge
10. Comollego.ba.gob.ar is a lifesaver. Once you get the hang of it, it will put Google Maps to shame and you will get around with ease. 
Buenos Aires is huge
11. You will fall in love with fútbol whether you like it or not. You may even catch yourself discussing yesterday's game with a barista and express obsessive feelings about the outcome of today's game. 
Buenos Aires is huge
12. All the passwords to wifi are either the name of the place, its address or a combo of both. Once you figure that out, you can log in anywhere. 
Buenos Aires is huge
13. Sos = eres, tú = vos, camina! = caminá, puedes = podés
Buenos Aires is huge
14. Frutilla, palta, festejar, ingresar, ananá are all Spanish words. Not fresa, aguacate, celebrar, entrar and piña. Those are not welcome here.
Buenos Aires is huge
15. Cafe, chico, cortado, con leche, lágrima... who's got time for all this?! Learn the one way you like your coffee and stick to it. Unless you are at Starbucks or Havana, you cannot have your coffee to go. 
Buenos Aires is huge
16. When ordering any kind of steak, it will be served as a piece of meat on a board. No sides, sauce, dips. Just a good ol' juicy hunk o' meat! 
Buenos Aires is huge
17. Sometimes ATMs run out of cash. All of them. At the same time. Get money before you are on empty. 
Buenos Aires is huge
18. Tell friends you cannot bring alfajores back as a gift. Sure they are delicious but each one weighs like a ton of bricks and will put a serious dent in your carry on. 
Buenos Aires is huge
19. Splurge on a quality tango show. Cheap cost will coincide with cheap quality.  Speaking of tango, find a proper Milonga and embarrass the hell out of yourself. It'll be a memory for the rest of time. 
Buenos Aires is huge 
20. After a while, Buenos Aires isn't so huge anymore. 









Tuesday, July 8, 2014

People Make the World Go Round

In my last jibber jabber I briefly touched upon people and their effect on traveling. In the last few days, I've come across many such wonderful creatures and a few annoying ones thrown in for good measure, ya know, to make you appreciate the good apples. 

A few days ago I was reading an entry in my Lonely Planet for the Top 10 Things to do in Buenos Aires. By the time I got to it, I've done all but one thing on the list. Meaty dinners, tango, dulce de leche were par for the course but as the highlight the author wrote about the locals. And now a week in, I couldn't agree more. I've come across so many people that made my minute, moment or the entire day.  Either they were interested as to why I spoke Spanish, wanted to be helpful or were just disgusted with my tango. Each one had a purpose and here are a few of my favorite tidbits:

The lady at Teatro Colon didn't want to let me go on the English tour since I spoke Spanish. I much rather would have preferred the Spanish one but the English was about to start and I wanted to get going. I should have listened to her. Alejandro, the guide, was so painfully rehearsed I wonder if she knew what she was talking about and I should have gone to the Spanish version.

The old man at Bar Los Galgos was so puzzled why a gringa was in his bar, he didn't know what to do with me. So he just smiled in amusement and brought my tea with extra care.

The waiter who wanted to yell at me so badly for not reading the fine print at El Cuartito. We paid "take out" prices but sat down. It's hard to blame ignorance since the "fine" print was in huge letters in 5 different places but I really didn't see it. Instead of getting mad, he chucked it up to me being foreign and offered me the wifi password. He knows how we roll. 

The complete douche bag of a driver who pulled away from the stop on purpose, damn well knowing there were people running to get to his bus. He didn't make me smile in the hour and a half I was on his bus but reminded me that there is always one of those around, high on power and assholeness but low on everything else. 

The sushi waiter asking me if i was American. No shocker here, right? He heard me in a lively discussion so I assumed it was because of my Spanish. Oh no. I ordered miso soup and apparently only Americans do that. Really? Why is it on the menu,  Mr. Japanese Resto?

Sebastian, Federico's friend who made me feel like an old buddy. Funny, engaging and very kind, I only hope I can repay the favor when he visits Cali. Pretty hair is not guaranteed.

Silvia, Sebastian's friend, the ONLY porteña who understood the struggle of a normal Spanish speaker. It's not asher, plasha, masho, and cashe. Instead, it's ayer, playa, mayo and calle. Thank you Silvia, for being an anthropologist and knowing how this shit works! 

Laura, another one of Federico's friends who pampered me at her salon with a massage and a facial. She didn't have to but she did, and it was very obvious when someone loves their job and is truly there to brighten your day. 

The older lady giving me a facial. "WHAT is wrong with your skin???" she wondered aloud. "I know it's bad," I say. She let out a loud "YEP!!!" just to make her point clear. I got it. Cool. Thanks. 

The family sitting next to me as I type this, laughing as I take a picture of my gorgeous Havana Latte de Chocolate con Avellana. I sheepishly smile at them, as to say "Sorry for being such a tourist." They laugh some more and say "We did the same thing when we got ours. Isn't it beautiful?"

And then there are the men. Manuel, the 29 year old that wanted nothing more than to be helpful. Only when an Argentinian man wants to be SO helpful, you start to wonder what he is after. After all, the stereotype of American girls being easy has come up several times this week, and the signs "Americans, get out!" are plastered all over the centro. 

The 20 something guy who wanted to teach me how to tango but being kind of lame himself, just couldn't. At the end, all he wanted was to get rid of me. "Hmm, the beginner's class is over there." Thanks. Why didn't you tell me that a while ago?

The obnoxiously excited guys at the club from Cupertino were SO stoked I was American. If this is so amazing, why don't you just stay in Cupertino? There are plenty of girls like me there. Whatevs, I got free water out of them. 

The two oldest gentlemen who were tango pros made the same mistake in one night, they asked me to dance. What a regret it was for both of them. I said to one: "If you push me, I'll follow and dance. His response: "If I push you, you'll fall." Classic.  It was a bummer for him but as for me, I got a great lesson, a huge smile on my face and a bit of a bruised ego. "Pfff, California..." were his parting words. Thank you, sir. 

Juan, La Bombera stadium guide couldn't have been more impressed with my Spanish and I even had a movie recommendation for him. Yup, this girl saw a documentary at the International Latino Film Festival about Diego Maradona years ago and is now in Buenos Aires at a soccer stadium recommending it to a guide. This rocks.  Speaking of the stadium, there were two young guys who excitedly PROMISED me that Argentina will do what USA couldn't. They were right and the day after, Argentina beat Belgium 1:0.

My favorite to date was a man in his 70s walking with a cane as I was trying to fit Teatro Colon in my camera's viewfinder.  There were many cars around and I just couldn't get it right.  "Can I give you a suggestion? Go on that side of the street, the angle is much better." 

Thank you, dude. And to all whose paths I've crossed in the last week. It's been such a pleasure living in a big city, being a tourist, feeling like a local and even making some friends along the way. The locals are kind and if anything, brutally honest.  I appreciate that. 

Tomorrow I head to Tigre. If the weather cooperates, it'll be a nice getaway to a small town away from the hustle and bustle of my Argentinian home. Buenos Aires. 





Thursday, July 3, 2014

The Big and Bad Buenos Aires

I could name this entry the same as the last one but that seems a little too lame. More appropriate "Sick and Sad in BA" or "In BA and Need a Hug Immediately." Those, however, seem too depressing so I'll focus on the amazing things I've done and seen, regardless if I was short on breath while doing them.

Traveling is my main passion and this week my face keeps being rubbed into the many reasons why.  I'll be the first one to admit that I knew very little about Buenos Aires, though having always wanted to visit it. I don't know if it's the romantic image of tango (thanks, Maksim Chmerkovsky!) or the unknown of South America. I can't quite put my finger on it and this week it hasn't become much clearer. What has become very obvious is how little I knew and how much I learned in the few short days I've been here. First thing first, I'm not actually in South America. I'm in any big European city. Madrid. Budapest. Hamburg. You name it, I'm here. This is no land of rice and beans, this is Italian pizzerias, finely dressed men and expensive grub. Very expensive, I may add.

On my first day here I took a walking tour of the center. I'm glad I did it right away as it gave me some basic knowledge of history and situated me geographically. The walk took us through the second widest avenue in the world (9 de julio), symbol of Argentina (obelisk), congress building as well as the house where the current president works (Casa Rosada). Our guide Gaston was hilarious and having spent 6 years at Lake Tahoe immediately took a liking to me and my roomie. Speaking of, I crazy lucked out with a roommate! When you rent a bed on airbnb and not a room (first for me) you don't quite know who you'll get. I got a professional violinist player from South Africa and she rocks. I'm even coming home with a CD. And I may or may not have invited myself to Cape Town next summer... but back to BA...

My SF Argentinian concierge, also know as Federico, has sent me numerous suggestions of things to do, eat, and see, answered bazillions questions about getting places and has been crazy helpful before and during the trip. To be honest, without his help, I'd probably be in bed all week because I feel that weak and awful and possess zero energy to actually plan for things to do. Luca and I took his Cafe Tortoni suggestion on the first day and had some delightful food. But Tortoni isn't really about food. It's about the atmosphere. Dark wood walls, large glass chandeliers and waiters in suits coming to take your order. Tortoni is one of the registered historical marks of the city, frequented by Argentinian celebrities of the past and now a must visit for anyone coming to BA.

Next door to Tortoni, there is an inconspicuous little door but the title says so much: Museo Nacional de Tango. We walked in and were offered to take the Tango class happening RIGHT now for free.  So about two minutes later, there was a "pinch me" moment... Am I really learning how to tango in Argentina this very minute? How does a Russian immigrant from Latvia get to do that? It wasn't just a fleeting thought, it's been something that has been on my mind since then. To call myself lucky is an understatement. I don't know what I am, but appreciative for sure.

The next day Argentina was playing against Switzerland in the World Cup. I don't know much about soccer but I love seeing others love it.  In the past, I've had my face painted for France, last week in Madrid I was rooting for Spain and now here I am in the current football capital of the world buying an Argentinian flag and going all out at a place called Locos por el Futbol.  Of course, I'm a bandwagon fan but being in a place of that title, you can't help but be sucked in, ooh and aah when appropriate and feel the passion of others. It's contagious and I love it. We ended up spending 7 hours at the bar, taking a short breather between the Argentina game and the US one. 

Yesterday, I discovered a gem nearby. In this loud, busy and bustling city lies a gorgeous Japanese garden. The photographer in me had a field day with amazing greens, bridges and silence of the gardens. Outside of living in Madrid and Hamburg, this is the longest I would have spent in a big city in my life. The gardens were a welcome retreat from bursting-at-the-seams Buenos Aires. I ended the day with a trip to the MALBA, a museum so new it wasn't in my guidebook. Wonderful collection of Latin American art by Diego Rivera, Botero, Frida Kahlo, Xul Solar and many others. 

Today, I followed another one of Federico's suggestions and went to El Cuartito. A pizzeria. I am not a pizza lover at all but I knew I'd eventually have to have some here since apparently that's the national dish (I still roll my eyes as I type this). Seeing how excited he got talking about this place, I had to make it happen. I'll give credit where credit is due: it was easily the best meal I've had here. 

After today's failed visit to a hospital to get some proper meds, I have to come to terms that I can't keep up my normal sightseeing routine. Usually I can see five, six things in one day. I can start early and go till very late at night. Just ask my poor 16yo students who couldn't keep up in Spain! It has become painfully obvious that I can do one or two things at most and need to rest the remainder of the day. It's killing me. There is so much to see and do here and I don't think I'll get to half of it. It's bumming me out to no end but something is better than nothing.  So here is to getting up and enjoying a tango show tonight. I got this!