Friday, October 9, 2015

RIP

So many thoughts tonight. This afternoon I found out that a friend of mine from high school passed away.  There were times we were inseparable, while others the drama of high school years was between us.
Groves High School had many Russians around and I wasn't too friendly with most. I did hear about this cool kid named Alex but alas our paths never crossed. Until this one math class. We were seated next to each other and I was assigned to help him with math. Or maybe it was the other way around? Who knows. The teacher would routinely get us in trouble for speaking Russian. "I don't know what you are saying! Are you talking about me??"
In our hatred of her we became fast friends. From hanging out with Alex's friends Scott, Ryan and Jake, I made a new group of friends who were fun (and fun to get in trouble with). Boy, did I learn about cars from those guys! Spoilers, beamers, neon lights, Chevrolets and Berrettas, I wanted to keep up and be one of the guys oh-so-much.
Alex introduced me to Remi's dad the first time we dated.  Many years later when we got back together, Alex wanted none of it.
After all, Pasha was one of his closest friends and I could never be good enough for one of his bros. It didn't matter that we've known each other for over a decade.  He didn't approve.
Over the years, Alex always marveled at my desire to travel and I at his for not wanting a change of pace.  He loved MI, he loved home and he loved his comfort. He loved those he surrounded himself with. 
Today, my heart hurts for Alex's pregnant wife and his son Adam. He'll never have his dad by his side as grows up to be a man and the little one will never get to meet the daddy.
Alex's pictures are popping up all over my facebook tonight. People will be making many jokes and fart sounds, as those would be the only way to remember Alex appropriately. His heart of gold and humor of a high schooler.
I talked to more people from high school tonight than I have in sixteen years combined. We are too young to deal with this. It  wasn't supposed to happen. But it did. And it does. Treasure the days that you have and hug the ones you love.
RIP



Wednesday, July 15, 2015

South Africa 2015

Usually when I head home I make sure to have packed in everything and anything into my near ending trip. 12 days in Buenos Aires last year left me satisfied and complete. Wow, is South Africa different. 

Everyone I spoke to before and during the trip couldn't believe I was doing SA in 9 days. I wasn't bothered, "I'm efficient" I said. I only hope those people walked away laughing at me, anything else wouldn't have made sense.

Luca, my official local tour guide extraordinaire, planned the trip ahead of time.  She sent me ideas and routes and I just nodded in agreement to whatever it was. In fact, I pretty much had no clue what I was walking into.  My two requests: wine and animals. There is something refreshing about coming to a place with zero expectations and seeing everything for the first time without any preconceived notions. 

If I even attempted to list everything we did my head would spin. But I can share some impressions, in no particular order: 

The racial differences throughout the country are stark. It seems as two worlds try to live in the same place at the same time but as I see it, the worlds live absolutely separately without even pretending to communicate with one another. One world is in cities full of life, restaurants and possibilities. Another (about 80% of the overall population) in slums made of metal siding, garbage bags and cloth waiting for the day the government comes in to kick them out. Every so often the Xhosa are told to leave their informal settlements or "townships" as they are called. But to where? There is no housing or opportunities so they pack up their few belongings and move to another area to start over.  If there was ever a place where education was so desperately needed, this is it.  Birth control is rare and as men work for minimal wages (annual family income is around $1800) women stay home and care for the kids. And the cycle continues, right? 

Not a single local engaged with me about politics (what a change from traveling in Europe!) In fact, it seemed as the American pop culture doesn't quite reach that far. Other than the random Taylor Swift song I felt like I was really really far away.

Parts of South Africa are just like the Bay Area. Gondola of Heavenly? Got it.  Forests of Tahoe? Of course.  Kalk Bay = Sausalito. Knysna = Monterey's Fisherman Wharf. Garden Route along the beach = Hwy 1. The comparisons go on and on. But of course the fun isn't in the similarities but in the differences. 

The Swartberg pass is a road after which one attaches a bumper sticker "I survived the Swartberg pass!!!" Indescribable beauty of mountains and complete silence once the car's engine is shut off. The only sound is of birds in the air. No pictures we took will ever do justice of the grandiosity of the pass or show how tiny two humans are against the rocks.

While at South Africa's #1 botanical garden Kirstenbosch I learned that Missouri has one of the best gardens in the world. Who knew? Next stop Missouri? I'll think about it. 

Things one can run into while driving on the freeway: people, turtles, kudus, baboons, cows, sheep, goats, horse and carriage. On the side of the road are ostriches, zebras, camels and springboks. Buzee!

Looking into Nelson Mandela's cell where he spent 18 years of his life makes you feel history. Anytime you travel you learn about the history of a place but this was different. Yes, it's important to know what happened in 1794 but it seems so far away. Learning about the apartheid and the events that took place at Robben Island in 1992 or 1995 feels like yesterday. I was alive for that. I immediately ordered a book written by Christo Brand. He was a prison worker who bonded with Mandela even though they were on the opposite sides of the fight.  I'm fascinated and I'm looking forward to reading it at home. 

Elephants are beautiful, gargantuan, kind animals. Until you see one walking by your car less than a meter away. And your windows are open. And he makes eye contact. Mommy, I was scared. 

When the Xhosa get married the man has to give the father of the bride a cow. Our tour guide for the Addo National Elephant Park impregnated his lady before marrying her. He had to pay the cow and much more for the extra damages.  I caught myself thinking "How is this possible? It's 2015. Cows? Damages?" But then I had to slow down and remember that just because we do something a certain way it doesn't apply to others. No matter the year. I feel like my ex owes my dad a cow. No? Too late? Darn.

Penguins are pretty amazing when they are out and about, frolicking on the beach.  I was a tad embarrassed to be so over the top excited about seeing them. I'm pretty sure they are like squirrels to locals but man, if I didn't photograph every single one. 

Cape Point is a dramatic spot where you are on top of a rock formation with Atlantic on one side and Indian Ocean on the other. Winds are insane and it's another spot where pictures would only show you half of the fun. That being said, Luca took some epic pictures that show none of the beauty and all of the wind. Scroll below. 

One amazing rooibos latte can change your life. I'll be chasing to find another to replicate it forever. Better yet, I'll come to Cape Town and get it again.

Speaking of... Wow, South Africans know how to eat. Of course, I've had a huge advantage of being with local 24/7 but no meal was mediocre. From the South African national dish of bobotie (I found a place in SF that has it!) to eating a traditional braai (BBQ of ostrich, kudu and pork) at a house of a local chef to exquisite dried mangos to oysters so fresh I could taste the sea every meal was memorable. Ok, this is where I bust out my "I'm from the Bay Area" card. We are food snobs. We have incredible food.  It's affordable.  It's everywhere. It takes a lot to impress me. And South Africa did it times ten. We ate when we weren't hungry because it was going to give me another opportunity to get fat err.... try something new. I made sure to try everything South African in sight. My birthday lunch was topped off with malva pudding and my birthday dinner with a milk tart. Damn right, it was my birthday and I could have two desserts if I wanted to! 

Caves. We must talk about the caves. The advertisement looked awesome but the pamphlet said that the tour was for lean people only. Umm, see paragraph above.  I decided to try it anyway. I could suck it in or something.  We were going through the instructions and how to navigate through the tiny openings (sliding, crawling, rock climbing) when the guide decided to tell us the story of a larger lady who got stuck for 11 hours. How they needed to lube her out. I was trying to make eye contact with Luca as in "get me out of here! I can't do this!" Yeah, she ignored me and I put on my big girl pants and did it. Wow, it was amazing. First of all, I fit. Second of all, we got a work out. And most importantly, it was super fun. Renée, I can't wait to hear your opinion. 

We toured an ostrich farm and those things are strong and scary. They are no one I'd want to meet in a dark alley but they taste good, so there is that.

We had a private tour of the Addo. Simni (yes, the one with the cow) drove Luca's car for 5 hours and we got the most incredible view of the animals. Everyone talks about South Africa's Big Five: lion, rhino, buffalo, elephant and leopard. Addo has the first four and we got to see buffalo and the elephants. No, we weren't sad about the lack of others. Rhinos are never seen (we weren't even allowed to know how many there were) and for a park that stretches 35 km south to north finding one of 11 lions seemed like a crazy game of luck. We saw kudus, warthogs galore, zebras, jackals, elands, vervet monkeys, turtles, birds and of course, the animals of the hour, elephants. 350 pictures later, I hope I captured some of their good sides.

One of unexpected highlights was the Tsitsikamma National Park. Try saying that a couple times fast. It's fun.  The foresty park is full of activities with beautiful waves hitting the rocks of the Indian Ocean and the gorge of the Storms River. I'd like to come and spend a week camping there. Kayaking, zip lining, relaxing and admiring its natural beauty. But instead, we spent about an hour hiking through the trails, walking over a suspension bridge (I didn't scream!) and having a picnic on the rocks looking out at the ocean.

This has been one incredible week where I only got to scratch the surface of this beautiful country. In my la-la fantasy land I'd like to come here for a month or two, have zero plans and see where the car and train take me.  Every turn, road and town has something to offer. Each park different from the one before. Landscapes change rapidly, you can't look away from the window. Wifi is crappy which is a bonus during vacations. People can't wait to show off their country and in turn, that makes you want to see it more and more. 

Four of the eight nights we stayed at different locations we found through airbnb. The website has changed the way I travel and there is nothing like staying at a stunning farmhouse or being invited for dinner with a local family, exchanging stories and laughs.  My favorite question this week was always "how do you two know each other? One is from Cape Town and the other from California."  We met in Argentina. We rented the same airbnb apartment in Buenos Aires and clicked. I can only hope to repay Luca some day and show off the country I call home. After all, it's the only country that would give me the opportunity to travel to South Africa. 













Tuesday, July 7, 2015

Yes, I miss him.

I didn't know how to start this entry so I sat on it for a couple of days. I still haven't figured it out so we'll see where this takes us. 

Out of nowhere I was asked if Remi lives with me. Where in the world would he live? My parents, they say, since I travel so much. 

I feel like it takes a lot to offend me.  To make me speechless. But that question did both instantaneously. Would I abandon my son? Send him to the other side of the country?  Is that what people think? The stereotypes of a mom stuck at home, cooking and cleaning apparently are alive and well! 

I'm often asked if I miss Remi when I travel. The question generally irritates me because it implies that I don't. The whole "there is no such thing as a stupid question" you were taught in school is complete bull. There are many idiotic questions and I field them daily at my job. But this one takes the cake.

The idea that I need to be with my son 24/7 is odd at best. He has a father, friends, activities, grandparents and many other things that keep him away from me.  When I look at my kid the words "sad, abandoned, poor thing" don't come to mind.  Maybe they should and I'm missing something? Fuck that.

During summers, we all went to dacha. A Russian summer home everyone had outside of the cities. We'd hang out for hours outside and play by the beach. Our parents didn't follow us nor did they text us every three minutes to see if we were ok. We played with neighbors, siblings and random people we met.  When I was 11, I taught myself how to "swim" in a local pool by myself. "Swim" is a big word, I just know how to flail my arms long enough not to drown. 

We went to sleep away camps. We made friends, slept with bugs and didn't call home. We had fun.

My son is lucky enough to have four very abled and involved grandparents. And a great grandma he especially requested to see today. He is so loved there that he can't wait to go to Michigan every summer. Way before June arrives, he talks about his daily Goldfish Swim School lessons, a week at camp (this year it's chess and tennis) and trips to the park.  Oh yeah, grandparents feed him ice cream every day too. 

Remi's grandparents are young enough to run around after him and excited enough to plan their summer vacations so that they can have him and I can travel.  This is my third summer away and I don't think he is a damaged kid. In fact, when I pick him up in August I know the first thing he'll tell me is the toys he got and how he fooled his grandparents into buying him pizza and cookies. Oh, to be a kid again.

Am I defending my actions? I guess I feel like I have to. I don't need to justify anything to anyone but the stupidity of the question was so profound it shocked me to the core. 

Yes, he lives with me. He also lives with his dad. Yes, I miss him when I'm away.  I'm sure his dad misses him too.  And when I travel, he gets to make amazing memories with his family and I get to see the world.  Win win for all, no?

And just for fun of it, Remi has been to 4 countries and 10 states. He'll be adding a 5th and 11th respectively before this year is out. He has been to Michigan 19 times.  He is 6. That poor child I always leave behind...

Monday, July 6, 2015

Vacation please?

What 24 hours! 

Yesterday after a pretty uneventful morning in Costa Rica, we were all ready to come home. I'm always nervous before flights no matter how short. When we loaded onto the plane to Miami for a 2 hour and 22 minute flight I had no clue that my plans for the next 24 hours would drastically change.  The pilot announced a few bumps on the way up and said the rest of the flight would be smooth. Boy, do his and mine definitions of a "few bumps" differ! As the plane was going from left to right and up and down, all I could tell myself was that the flight to Spain last year was worse. We eventually evened out and for the next two hours I chatted with two kids from my group. The weather was turning grey and the pilot announced that we will be landing a few minutes late. He then lowered the plane as he were landing but aborted the mission and we took off into the sky. That was a first! Later on he announced that he couldn't see the runway and we will try again later. If you've ever flown with me you know this is pretty much the equivalent of my hell. There is nothing I hate more than flying and I've always said my absolute worst nightmare would be getting dental work done while on a turbulent flight. Try again???  What the hell does that mean?! Why not do it the first time?! I started thinking of all the crashes that have occurred due to bad weather and all the ones we have no clue what happened. Yes, my mind is crazy.  This time we were trying from another direction. Before he got too low he changed his mind and we went to Ft Lauderdale. And what a landing that was. Smashed. Fell. Hit. I don't know what we did to that ground but we didn't land gracefully  We sat on the ground for an hour awaiting the improvement of Miami's weather. Oh wait, we ran out of gas too! If you know anything South Florida, then you know that Miami is about a 15 minute flight from Ft Lauderdale. We didn't have enough gas to fly for 15 minutes? That's some freaky shit, I bet I'd need two gallons or less of fuel to drive the distance.  

As we landed in Miami (only a slightly better version of the prior landing) our flight to SFO has left.  For the next seven hours, I worked to reroute 31 people back to SFO. Our group was broken up into three: direct, via LA and via Phoenix. Two adults in my group found a hotel for 31, no easy task on a July 4th weekend. The kids were amazing (at least to my face!), the adults rather frustrating. They didn't like being sent into the passport check line (instead of the computerized version), were tired, needed to know NOW when we were departing and such. I went into complete beast mode. Moving families around the different itineraries, dealing with highly irritated American Airlines workers, parents requesting their kid was on the first flight out, catching kids who were completely deleted from our reservation list and more.  By the time we all had our itineraries, it was almost 3 am. Out of 30 people one person said thank you. That stung a bit but I know everyone was exhausted and just too wrapped up in themselves to see what was happening around them. 

That night, I got four hours of sleep in four increments: 1 hr, 15 minutes, 1 hour, 1 hour 45 minutes. I met every group in the hotel lobby and got them to the furthest point I could. This let me know that I'd never want be a tour guide and that EF insurance is awful. Why didn't they do all the rerouting? What if I was a group leader who didn't know how to navigate this? Why didn't they book us the hotel? The whole thing was a bit of a nightmare but as usual, all is well that ends well.

Once all the groups were on their way I stayed in Miami. There was little point in flying home just to do laundry and pick up my South Africa bag. Yes, I'll miss the credit cards I specifically got for this trip, warm clothes, my SA book and tampons but life goes on.

Dziugas picked me up from MIA and Innetta and I loaded up the laundry. We had lunch at Whole Foods, I raided the store for winter weather clothes which was no easy task in 1) Florida 2) July.  Whatever is missing I can always get on the way but there was no way I was going to sit in the air for extra 9 hours for it. 

I got to meet Innetta's daughter for the first time and see her mom and brother. Last time I was in Florida Innetta was pregnant, how am I meeting a three year old?! Time flies.  

I went back to the airport, got an upgraded seat on the plane (didn't wear the heels for nothing!) and actually got some sleep in the air. If that isn't a sign of exhaustion I don't know what is.

Hopefully my vacation can officially start now? 

Sunday, June 28, 2015

Costa Rica 2015

Every night when everyone has gone to bed I stay up writing an essay/book/update in order to let the parents know we are well. The students in the past have thanked me for the emails as well. We see so much and do so many things everything quickly becomes a mess in their heads. The emails await the students and serve as a reminder of all we've done. The emails miss 100% of crap that goes on behind the scenes and this tour has had more of it than imaginable. The weather is crazy, delays inevitable but the kids are here and happy so in the end that's all that matters.
Day 1
We had an incident tonight in a room with four girls. A student got out of the window and was outside. Security called the hotel which in turn notified all the chaperones.
I'm emailing to let you know that if anything like sneaking out/not following strict rules (which I impose for everyone's safety) happens again I will send students home.
We are a large group and each individual has been warned many times of the consequences.  Every student and adult needs to contribute to the well being and safety of the group and if not,  I'll be contacting EF to start procedures to send those individuals to CA.
Tortuguero 1
After a rather frustrating first day with lots of tardiness and lack of listening, the students decided to turn this boat around and we are now off to fun land!
Yesterday morning we got a tour of San José, capital of Costa Rica. I'd be lying if I said it was an planned one but due to floods in the northern part of the country and changing of routes we got to see a prison that has been changed into a kids museum, an airport runway that has been converted into a park with eucalyptus trees, lots of traffic and a Walmart. During the tour David taught us local slang (Que tuanes, mae!), bits and pieces of history and set us up for what we were about to see. We drove through Parque Nacional Braulio Carrillo,  saw some full rivers (no drought here) but the highlight was seeing banana plantations and all that it entails. Del Monte, Chiquita and Dole are all based in CR and are one of main employers of native ticos in the rural areas. We saw the chira flower, men pull zip lines of bananas and learned all about how bananas get to our grocery stores in the U.S. 
We arrived at La Pavona at about 11 am and got on a boat to Tortuguero. This place is so off the beaten path the only way to get here is via air or boat. It's also the reason I chose this itinerary for the students (more details to come).  We spent the following hour oohing and aahing over the lush rain forests and incredible greens as we made our way to our home for the next two nights. We are staying in brightly colored bungalows on gorgeous tropical grounds. The students have taken advantage of the pool very well.  We spent the afternoon in the downtown of tiny town of Tortuguero which was a 3 minute boat ride away. Remember, no roads here!
We saw the strong currents of the Caribbean Sea, tried freshly cut coconuts and had too much fun on kids' see-saws. In the eve, we had yuca for the first time along with the local delicacy: beans and rice. 
More pool was to follow and then we had to get to work! Students collaborated on their WeShare topics and it was fun to watch different levels of Spanish working 
together. Tomorrow we will put our Spanish to use as we encounter locals and inquire about the local economy, dress, religion, arts and many other topics the students have pondered about.  To top off the eve, we did some Costa Rica trivia where five students won prizes for listening and learning! 
We are sitting in "no wifi land" and I'm using our tour guide's phone as a hot spot. So don't expect to hear from your offspring for another day but we are here and happy! 
Tortuguero 2
Each day is full of activities yet somehow relaxing. We are 10 degrees off the equator so the sun gets up early and we start our days soon after. 
In the morning, we got into three different boats and spent the following two hours on the canals of Parque de Tortuguero, A highly protected area full of wildlife and plants unlike what we see at home. Our tour guides took us to the best spots to see two different types of monkeys (howler and capuchin), turtles, cayman and multiple birds. One boat was lucky to spot a third type of a monkey (the spider one), while another saw a sloth and a third saw a spider eating a shrimp. Don't ask.  
We had a great lunch soon after and some kids were going for seconds and thirds, I guess they really liked the rice and meat! David, our guide, shared a local chocolate sweet made with guava. 
The students' next task was to ask the locals some questions they had prepared the night before. They videotaped the mini interviews and I can't wait to see them.  I'm very proud of them for getting out of their comfort zones and practicing their Spanish. Even the two girls (Jocelyn and Avani) who study Chinese and ASL! 
Once we got back to our hotel we had some downtime. Some swam, others napped and a lot complained about bugs (you guys are in the jungle!)
In a few minutes we are going to go searching for turtles. There are no guarantees but with highly trained spotters and guides, I surely hope we will see some beautiful creatures and learn about all that's done to protect them. As our guide told us "the culture is changing.  the grandparents used to kill turtles, the parents are tour guides and today's local kids are learning how to conserve them." It's quite an honor and a privilege to partake in this activity and see researchers do work live on the beach of the Caribbean.  Before I left to CR, a very generous donor handed me an envelope with some money to treat the kids. The turtle tour was not included in EF cost and is possible because of this person's generosity. We are very very thankful and without them, some wouldn't be able to get the full experience. 
Donovan, one of students, was very kind to a local lady and helped her out.  She made sure to recognize this and gifted him a hand carved coconut.  A teacher leading another group, applauded our students for their behavior. Makes me proud of our group and of course of Logan!
The weather has been really kind to us in Tortuguero. It's hot and humid but there hasn't been any rain. That being said, the rest of Costa Rica has not been that lucky. Floods are everywhere and the road we were supposed to take to Sarapiqui flooded, the bridge we used to get here is no longer there.  We are being rerouted and are skipping the Sarapiqui region as well as the white water rafting tour. Safety first! Stay tuned on the refunds you'll be getting from EF.  And of course, the details about our adventure.  

Day 3 Tortuguero route to mainland/San Jose

Because of the weather groups were being delayed left and right. Since Tortuguero is only reachable by a few different highways there was a possibility we'd get stuck there for a night or two due to landslides and fallen bridges. But not us! We were one of the few groups that made it out when we were supposed to. Instead of Sarapiqui and white water rafting we were heading to San Jose to spend a night there and head to La Fortuna the next day. 

After taking the boat out of Tortuguero, we met our bus driver Freddie who'll be with us for the remainder of the trip. Freddie doesn't just know how drive these tiny streets he also has an eye of a hawk. While en route, he spotted two different sloths and we got quite a lesson about them. So cute but hidden too well up in the trees.

David arranged lunch for us at a restaurant on the way to San Jose.  While it doesn't seem like a big deal we are a huge group (47 with the school from Texas) and since we were rerouted this wasn't a common road for tours to pass. We ate at El Coln restaurant with beautiful views. Some of us may have gotten a little excited over the amazing rotisserie chicken and bought an entire one to go. So many people did that that there may have been a chicken party in one of the rooms later on. But I'm not telling. 

Freddie took us through Cartago, the original capital of San Jose. We saw the only Basilica in Costa Rica and learned about the pilgrimage that happens every year. 

Next stop: the capital itself! We did a mini walking tour of the historic part of San Jose. We saw the beautiful theater and the main plaza. We came in at the end of a parade in support of gays, which of course happened after the SCOTUS passed its ruling. 

We tried the local ice cream chain Pops and I was proud that most kids ordered and took care of business in Spanish. Me gusta. 

When we arrived a the hotel we discovered it was a Best Western. Is was a fancy one, much nicer than the ones in the U.S. AC was blowin' and wifi worked. I surely hope everyone heard from the kids that day. I had assumed that everyone would sit in their rooms on their phones but the wifi excitement died down soon after and the kids made the trek to the local supermercado. It's moments like these when they impress me and show me what they are really here for.

Do you know what's always in the same building as a Best Western?! A Denny's! Yes, our dinner was not very authentic but it did the trick.  

After dinner, we wrote in journals and it's nice to see some students getting really into it. Of course, some write just so that I leave them alone while others write pages and pages and are really documenting their experience.  This was also the third night of trivia questions! Every night I've been asking 5-10 questions from the day to see if they've been paying attention. So far their prizes have included bracelets with turtles, key chains and large stickers. I've got more things for the days to come so I hope they are paying attention. 
Adelante!

La Fortuna Day 4
We awoke to an American breakfast of Denny's. To offset the meal and remind us that we are still in Costa Rica, we tried the local fruit granadilla. It's quite slimy and I was very proud of every single student for trying it. It's sweet and yummy once you get over its look and texture.

The next few hours on the bus were full of very distinct stops. First up, a shop for souvenirs where we raided the place for 20 minutes.  It's always interesting to watch the students budget yet buy thoughtful gifts for those back home and some trip reminders for themselves. The roads after the shop were getting windier and windier and people were starting to feel nauseous. No one threw up (yay!) and once the bus stopped randomly on the side of the road we were excited about getting fresh air. But where were we? David told us our next stop was lunch in town and this didn't look like lunch nor was it a proper town square.   David had called ahead to this rural school and asked if we can stop by and give our donations. Of course, none of us knew that! So here we are, in the middle of nowhere, rummaging through 50 suitcases trying to find the stuff Logan has been carrying around for four days. 

The school: Los Molinos, 87 children. Grades Pre K-6. While the principal Doña Roberta was gathering the kids to come outside, some of us sprung into action. We needed to create 80+ bags full of markers, pencils, erasers, glue sticks, stickers, pencil sharpeners and more. Wow, there was a lot of stuff. In fact, once we were done making some very generous bags the teachers got a full suitcase of supplies as well. As the bags were made, the Costa Rican kids introduced themselves and sang the anthem. Once our students started singing ours, I was making the bags and crying at the same time. There is something about us being in absolute middle of nowhere, being proud of who are and leaving a positive footprint.  We have some pretty awesome ocapella singers but let's just say not everyone knows the words of the anthem ;).  The locals took our students to show off their classrooms. Because the school is so small only 40 students were there, the rest come in the afternoon. The little ones immediately grabbed hands and off they went.  One kid gifted ours his English homework. Another, told our student he'll miss her. They played basketball together and danced. Once the bags were finally done, each student gave one to a local kiddo. Eyes lit up and they were truly thankful.  Doña Roberta told us how the kids always ask where the big tour buses are going. She always has to explain to them the tourists don't have time, they are on their to La Fortuna to see the volcano. But for a moment, we changed that. We may have been the first Americans they interacted with, we were learning their language and cared enough to stop. It was a truly powerful cultural exchange. Lastly, I'll add that EF has school that it visits but it's always the same schools and the kids know when the buses are going to pull up, they do the traditional dancing and talk about the schools. But it's always the same schools and always planned. The spontaneity of this stop is what made it truly special for all of us. 

Next stop: lunch in town. I was shocked that kids didn't cheer when we were told it was going to be pizza. It tells me that they are enjoying the local food and are happy to be trying new and local things. Makes me proud. Again. David promised that we were not going to have more American food but he is doing the best he can since this is the portion of the trip he had to replan and reroute due to the floods. 

Zip lining was next! For about half of the group it was the first time doing it. I'd say 80% of us got stuck at some point and it was fun to cheer each other on to get to the end of the cable.  The third cable's view was absolutely breathtaking and the last (and the longest) cable went over a canyon and a river, the view were delightful, adrenaline was up and we had a blast.  

Because there is no rest for the weary, our next stop was a hike down to see La Catarata Fortuna, a gorgeous waterfall. The walk down was more than 300 steps. What comes down must come up, right? Some of us were immediately worried about not dying on the way back up.  The waters beneath the waterfall we clear and the current so very strong. At a certain point it was a bit scary but I'm glad to report that I'll be bringing back the 31 I took here.

We were finally at our hotel. We are on the lake with gorgeous views, the hotel rustic and really cute. The bugs are baaaack (in full force!) but at least having done this in Tortuguero we are becoming pros of dealing with it. 

After a very yummy dinner (so far the soup was my highlight of hotel food on this trip), we wrote in journals, cleaned up a bit and had a dance! Some kids were too tired to shake it, while others had a fab time on the dance floor. David gave us some salsa lessons and then opened up the floor with his DJing skills (aka Bose speaker he carries around everywhere he goes). 

After a crazy long day, we are getting up for another day full of activities. Yes, this is a vacation after which you need a vacation and I love it. I think students do too.


La Fortuna Day 5

We started our day full on knowing that it will be a busy one. Today was definitely the most action packed day, not that we've had much rest at all!

Parque Arenal was a 2 km hike up over the volcanic rocks and the view at the top was quite the reward. It rained the whole time which of course made this hike in the rain forest live up to its name. We attempted a Logan picture but one person already started walking back down. To this day, our only group pic is the one from the airport at departure. Very lame!

Next was a kayaking adventure. We got to work all kind of muscles today! Kayaking in the rain is not for the weak but David taught us a Costa Rican expression "Mal tiempo, buena cara" which means "bad weather, good face" and we couldn't let him down. Once we were given the safety instructions we realized that tipping each other was allowed. You can only imagine what ensued and how many times I was attacked!  For obvious reasons we didn't bring cameras but I'm looking forward to students sharing their GoPro footage.

We had a boxed lunch in the center of La Fortuna, had a few minutes to check out the church and do some shopping.

Onto the Rainforest Chocolate Tour! Our guide, Erica had impeccable English and was very engaging. We got to break the cacao fruit, start the fermentation process (with our saliva!), separate the shells and grind the cacao. Then we created cacao drinks and our own mini chocolate spoons full of whatever toppings we wanted. It was a delicious way to end a very informative and fun activity.

Our last stop of the day was the fanciest of the trip. We went to https://www.baldihotsprings.cr and I'm pretty sure your students would love to take you there soon. 21 pools naturally heated by the volcano surrounded by lush gardens. Enough said.

Back at the hotel we had dinner, wrote in journals and did our nighly trivia. Tonight's prizes were bookmarks made of lemon and banana paper.

We celebrated Prianka's 17th and Alex's 18th birthdays and I promised them that no matter how they celebrate their future birthdays they'll always remember how they spent this one.

Tomorrow we are moving to our fourth and last stop: Guanacaste.

Pura vida!

Guanacaste/Playa Hermosa Day 6

This morning we woke up in La Fortuna (actually our little town was called El Castillo) and headed up North to the Pacific Ocean. We drove along Lake Arenal, an 85 square miles manmade lake in which we kayaked yesterday.

While we were still in the US, I asked David to organize our horseback riding activity. He couldn't but he promised me a surprise later on this week.

We pulled up to a family owned restaurant El Establo, where Alexandra showed us the Costa Rican process of brewing coffee (through a cloth bag) and tried her family's tortilla recipe. It was stuffed with cheese, sugar, and coconut. The combo sounded odd until we tried it. It was ah-mazing! We were then asked to go to a stable (thus the name of the restaurant) and that's where the magic happened. The father Alexander had his 4 year old granddaughter put on a show for us on a beautiful white horse. He told stories of starting with nothing and then buying horses that nobody wanted and treating them the same way he would want to be treated. Humanely. He was a great story teller and his message was loud and clear. He also gave us five principles of living a good life: having limits, intuition, love, respect and perseverance. I couldn't agree more.

We continued on and stopped at a grocery store for some snacks. Tomorrow is going to be a long day and we need to have some treats. Some of us raided the bakery department as well. It's always a terrible idea to go food shopping before lunch but I digress. Next stop:  lunch at a beautiful restaurant next to a dry forest. As we ate we saw other zip by on canopies. The food was great and plentiful and then we were off to a hike in the dry forest.

We arrived at the entrance of Volcan de Rincon de la Vieja at 3 pm on the dot. The problem? It closes at 3 pm. After a few phone calls and a very shady handshake David got us in.   What a difference the climate makes! This was as dry as can be, with red rocks everywhere and geysers spewing steam at 109 degrees.

We headed to our hotel where there was no time to check in, we had to check out the sunset over the Pacific Ocean at Playa Hermosa! The water is much much warmer than in CA and dare I say, enjoyable? The black sand was smooth as can be and it was a good way to really start the end of our last leg.

We had dinner at the beautiful Hotel Mangaby, did journals, filled out our departure forms and did our last trivia. Kids have learned a lot and 2/3 have won something this week for paying attention.

And then there was the late late walk to the beach. It was 10 pm and I asked the students to bring absolutely nothing with them. If they were bringing a camera they had to keep it on them at all times. 24 of us walked one block to the beach and had a great time. The water was refreshing, it was fun to be out, many laughs were had and it felt like the cherry on top.

We headed back to pick up our shoes to walk home. But guess what? Only 14 found our pair. Yes, while we were dipping our feet in the water someone walked over, picked out which shoes they liked and took the select ones. We are a great group and those of us that lost them took it as a compliment! We were a bit puzzled but there are neverending reminders of always being vigilant when traveling.   I'm glad the kids brought nothing fancy on them but truth be told, I'm not sure what we could have done to prevent it. Geez. Your kid may be coming back with less shoes than they came with.

Tomorrow is our last day in paradise. We have two more activities planned and then we are heading home. Time flies when you are having fun! 

Day 7 Playa Hermosa 

We started our last day with a choice, a typical breakfast or an American one. Lovers of gallo pinto went with the typical one, of course! 

On the way to Parque Nacional Palo Verde, we picked up our tour guides Juan Carlos and Alonso. Our group separated into two boats and off we went searching for crocodiles, monkeys and whatever else we could find in Rio Tampisque. 

It soon became evident that it was going to be an easy search. With an average of 8 to 10 crocodiles per kilometer they were everywhere.  I'm happy to report we are coming back with all of our hands in tact and heads attached. We picked up a baby crocodile and my boat's captain let us pet it. 

We saw many iguanas, crocs and birds but the highlight of the show were the capuchin monkeys! They played on the roof of our boat, touched our cameras, tried to steal our hats and much more. Many pics were taken and I'm sure you'll see every angle possible of the carablancas on your kid's cameras. 

Lunch was at a charming restaurant off the beaten path where we sat on tree stomps, ate from shells and enjoyed lively conversation. 

For our last activity of the trip, we spent a few beautiful hours on the boat and in the water. I couldn't have come up with a better way to close out the week. We snorkled, hang out on the boat, played on the beach, learned salsa and bachata from the crew and danced away! 

And then I *didn't* fall in the water! As I sat down in the boat after the beach, I realized my bathing suit was full of sand. I asked the captain if I can jump out and clean the sand and he approved. Of course, with my grace fully in tact (and no one else knowing I was planning on jumping out) I took one step and went flying from the boat. Pretty much everyone freaked out for the two seconds before I popped up above water. Nice to know students cared and didn't want me dead at the end of the trip :)

In the eve, David said some kind words to our group. He really enjoyed us, thanked us for being on time and open minded. Then some students began to talk and some things became very clear: they loved the trip and really bonded with the Texan group. I can truly say they've made some new friends from "home" while bonding and learning all that Costa Rica had to offer. 

As a wrap up, I want to mention that the kids were amazing throughout the trip. After the initial hickup, everyone was on time, kind, respectful and welcoming. We learned a lot but I'd like to think that we taught others as well.  We shared with the school, took our lost shoes in stride, helped each other, tried new foods, dealt with bugs, lived without ac and WiFi and survived.  Isn't it what traveling is all about? Leaving your comfortable life at home, seeing how others live, leaving a positive footprint and wanting to do more? For those who have never traveled before, I hope this is a beginning of opening the wonderful world we live in. For my seasoned travelers, thank you for letting me show you such a beautiful country.  And for parents, thank you for giving this opportunity to your kids. It's an experience they will never forget. 



Sunday, May 10, 2015

Mother's Day 2015

Being single on Mother's Day is hard. I've already written about holidays as a single parent sucking more than their fair share but there is something about March 8th and Mother's Day that feels like it needs a man. That something is that I have a little kid. One who can't go to the store to buy me a gift or doesn't know he needs to sit down and draw a picture for me. For that, he needs a dad. 

Today, I have gotten an enormous amount of messages from the many men in my life. Colleagues, current friends, friends I haven't talked to in months and so on. Surprisingly, it's been more men than women. Women are enjoying their pampering day or at least that's what it feels like. Ya know, the shit you tell yourself to feel worse than you already do. But the message that meant the most was from Remi's dad.

For the last two years, he has ignored the two women's holidays so the bar for today was set pretty damn low. But when Remi busted out all the goodies he made at school, there was also a store bought card.

It said "I love you."

It was so simple and so perfect. The fact that his dad thought about it, bought it and sat Remi down to teach him how to treat a lady meant the world to me. I don't need a massage or a fancy breakfast. I just want to know that my son has a man figure in his life. And for that, I'm one happy and thankful mother.

Thursday, April 23, 2015

One of those days

I've spent the last few days counseling a kid whose world is crumbling down.  I'm most certainly not a therapist but it's amazing what words can come out of your mouth when you really care. No training necessary, just some compassion, time and love.

A sweet, kind friend of mine gave birth three days ago and today I went to her house to meet the new little lady.  Wow, I don't think I've seen a new mom so full of love as she held her newborn daughter yet at the same time so sure of herself. After all, her older son is four and she feels like a pro at this. It's a combo I haven't encountered before; brand new baby and a confident rock star mom.

Today, a person important to me got some challenging news. You never want to see someone you care about be down. There is only so much you can say, the rest is just being a supportive ear.

With all these emotions running high and low, I had a rough evening myself.  Then out of nowhere, I was told "I got you, I'll take care of it." It was so simple.  Yet so appreciated.

As I wrap up my ramble, remember you never know what kind of a day someone is having. See if you can "get them" too.

Monday, January 26, 2015

Sundance 2015

78 hours
12 movies
14 hours of sleep
Gorgeous weather and fantastic friends.
More celebrities than one could count but in the end, it's all about the movies.
Every year when I go to Sundance, people ask if I'm a fanatic of all things cinema. Until I discovered this festival, my choice of movies has always been no-brain-cells-required Hollywood romcom.  I hate psychological mindfucks, thrillers, special effects and violence.  And frankly, there is not much left at your local AMC.
Along the way I've discovered indie flicks at small cinemas and the International Latino Film Festival in the Bay Area that used to come every November. It exposed me to interesting movies where I got to learn a ton, see new landscapes and of course, listen to Spanish.
In the last six years, Sundance has become my obsession of sorts. Going to Park City and sucking in everything that I possibly can gets me enough to last all year. Are all movies great? Absolutely not. I've seen some doozies along the way (Frank, anyone? Wetlands? Oh my.) But with the usual selection of 118 movies I'm bound to walk away fulfilled and a bit more knowledgeable than when I walked in.
When choosing a movie, I tend to lean towards documentaries and this year was no different.  Out of the 12 movies that I saw, 9 were docs. There was plenty of fascinating material but I usually judge the wow factor on one thing: memorability. Will I be talking about this when I get home, will I remember this movie next year?
Sundance 2015 gave me one movie that made me sob, think, reflect and ponder over and over. "The Mask You Live In" is an in-depth look at what we expect of our boys. Do we tell them not to cry? Not to play like a girl? Permit them to show emotion? Encourage them to "be a man?" Turn the other way with violent videogames? The research filled movie follows kids from the sweet age of kindergarten all the way to lives gone wrong at San Quentin. The movie doesn't just  demonstrate the power of our words it makes us feel each one.
As a mom of a 5yo this movie touched me in ways I didn't anticipate.  As an ex-wife of a Russian (and when I type this I assume readers have some preconceived stereotypes of a Russian man) it is something that I struggle with all the time.
Long blond hair. Favorite color is pink. Cooking in his mini kitchen. Dancing is for girls. ChapStick is for girls. We should get her a princess toy because she is a girl.  Through my son I've heard it all. Can I fight these preconceived notions or let my kid be picked on? How do I not fall for this neverending bombardment of stereotypes? 
I have no answers to any of these questions but it's amazing what 90 minutes in a movie theater can do.
Sundance always brings incredible movies and something to think about.  I'm thankful for another thought provoking experience and can't wait for 2016. Lucky number seven.
In the meantime, I ordered Legos for Remi's friend. But damn it, they were pink.
The Mask You Live In - Trailer: http://youtu.be/hc45-ptHMxo